1901 Restaurant

The Men of Empire who built this grandiose red-brick Victorian building in the heart of the city would be taken aback if they saw the funky, sleek and modern ANdAZ hotel. For 21st-century city slickers seeking to divest themselves of their bonuses, however, it's just the sort of sophisticated, urbane setting that is required. A vast marble cocktail bar sits at the centre - great for a glass of fizzy whilst checking out the congregation and the striking setting. The 1901 Restaurant is a room that was built to overawe: fluted neo-classical pillars tether a stratospherically high stained-glass dome to a mirror-finish marble floor bedecked with plushly-padded, cappuccino and caramel-hued seats at darkwood tables separated by ample space for private deal-making. Service is unbuttoned, but on-the-ball, and the kitchen certainly knows its stuff, delivering clean-cut contemporary dishes of well-judged flavours. The menu is big on provenance, and could kick off with Arbroath smoked haddock teamed with crab cake, citrus segments and chilli ketchup. Main courses are equally intelligent in their conception, and deftly executed - perhaps halibut with razor clams, red wine butter sauce and a potato bagel, or a duo of beef tenderloin and oxtail served with pumpkin purée and potato gratin. Cheese fans should wind things up at the cheese and wine tasting area.