Carlton Riverside

Set beside the river bridge in the centre of town, this small, characterful three-storey restaurant with rooms - a former AA Restaurant of the Year for Wales winner - is home to the friendly and enthusiastic Gilchrists (the husband-and-wife team previously at Carlton House). The stylish, intimate restaurant combines quality contemporary fabrics and furnishings with the charm of the house and river views. It's all very soothing, with comforts provided by high-backed chocolate-brown leather chairs and cream napery, and the diligent and attentive service of Alan Gilchrist. Wife Mary Ann looks after the cooking, her confident, one-woman act undertaken with panache, underlining her obvious passion and talent. Her fixed-price menus (the Chef's Menu is a no-choice affair, while the Irfon Menu offers a compact selection) make a virtue of simplicity, the wonderful straightforward approach driven by stunningly fresh, local seasonal produce. It's honest with no gimmicks, and everything is full of flavour and perfectly timed. Smoked haddock and leek gratin topped with gruyère cheese shows the style, followed by seared fillet of beef with buttered spinach, potatoes Savoyarde, and red wine and mushroom sauce, and to finish warm chocolate fondant with home-made pistachio ice cream.

In town centre beside bridge
Nearest station: Llanwrtyd Wells

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