The Well House Hotel

The Well House was built by a Victorian tea tycoon to hide away in idyllic seclusion in the Looe Valley. As you toast his excellent eye for a plum location with afternoon tea on the terrace, taking in the quintessentially English view of verdant hills and meadows all around, it's hard to imagine that crowds are queuing to get into the Eden Project a short drive away. It's the perfect bolthole for a restful gastronomic getaway too, with a resolutely country-house ambience courtesy of relaxed and friendly staff. The excellent canapés served in the bar are the first hint that dining here is a cut or two above the ordinary. Sculptures and fine art blend well with the white and neutral tones of the smart contemporary restaurant. Modern European cooking with the emphasis on prime local, seasonal produce is the key here: Tom Hunter is a young Master Chef who channels his passion and skills well without straying too far into avant-garde territory. Technique and presentation are at a high level throughout in an intelligently-conceived repertoire; expect sharp, clearly-defined flavours and well-judged combinations. A creamy white onion risotto comes with the nutty bite and texture of toasted almonds and herb butter, while a main course of halibut is partnered with young kale, crispy bacon and 5 types of wild mushroom.

A38 to Liskeard and A390 to town centre, then take B3254 to St Keyne 3m. In village take left fork at church signed St Keyne. Hotel 0.5m on left
Nearest station: Liskeard

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