Champany Inn

The cluster of buildings, some dating from the 16th century, houses a chophouse and bar as well as the restaurant, a large circular room that was once a mill. It's a charming place, with a vaulted roof, portraits lining the stone walls and antique wooden tables gleaming in the candlelight. Steaks, from Aberdeen cattle, properly hung and prepared by the in-house butcher, rule supreme, and the formula is simple: chefs will select your choice - sirloin, porterhouse, Chateaubriand or whatever - and cut it for cooking on the specially designed charcoal grill. Timing is spot on, contact with the grill adds a further depth of flavour, and accompanying vegetables are well reported. A few alternatives are available - perhaps lobster, or roast chicken breast stuffed with herbs - and something from the smoke pot makes a good starter: try hot-smoked cod with beurre blanc.