Chilston Park Hotel

As is the case with many a Georgian country seat that was once the exclusive preserve of Lords and Viscounts, politicians and wealthy Kentish families, Chilston Park's 22 acres of sublime landscaped gardens and parkland now allow in anyone who can stretch to the price of a meal in its Venetian-style Culpeper's restaurant. Inside, it is a pukka stately home crammed with period antiques and oil paintings - a setting that could easily do service as a costume drama film set with its ornate plasterwork ceiling, regal fireplace and crystal chandeliers. The kitchen deals in a style of modern British cooking that is clearly rooted in the classics but has no hesitation in sending out some more inventive combinations, as in a starter of tempura ox tongue teamed with cauliflower cheese and caper dressing, followed by a duo of local pheasant served as slow-roasted breast and a raised pie of leg meat, pointed up by the sharpness of blackberry and red wine jus. A pistachio soufflé with white chocolate sauce closes in impressive style, and wine lovers should note a serious listing with a fine choice by the glass.