La Brasserie at The Chester Grosvenor & Spa

Despite its multi-rosetted sibling (see entry), The Brasserie represents a hugely accomplished dining option in its own right. The mirrors and brass light fittings, together with a busy but nonetheless chic decorative scheme and the bustling, long-aproned staff, may look the Parisian part, but the cooking is several cuts above the norm. A French basis is obviously detectable, but is counterpointed with Italian and British modes, so that a meal might take you from salmon and beetroot ravioli in lemon oil, or properly velvety mushroom velouté with truffle oil and crostini, to braised fillets of Conwy Valley lamb with hotpot potatoes and ruby cabbage. Dessert might be a double-deckered serving of banana ice cream and parfait, garnished with a coconut crisp and passion-fruit coulis.