The Masons Arms

This 13th-century thatched village inn (albeit nowadays more a destination restaurant) oozes rustic character and charm, and a pleasing lack of pretension. The beamed bar has a huge fireplace and very low doorway, with steps to the restaurant in its more modern rear extension with stunning views of the Exmoor countryside. Hand-painted murals adorn the apex ceiling here, offering a complete contrast to the bar areas of the original inn. Mark Dodson's cooking has fine pedigree (for many years he was head chef at The Waterside Inn in Bray - see entry), his style here is full of maturity and confidence, delivering refreshingly uncluttered, clean-cut dishes that use top-notch ingredients. And his modern take on British and French classics has justifiably created a stir in this sleepy mid-Devon hideaway. Take a starter duo of chicken liver and ham hock terrine served with vegetables à la Grecque and brioche toast, and to follow, perhaps monkfish loin wrapped in prosciutto ham and accompanied by potato purée and an orange and balsamic vinegar sauce. It's deservedly busy so book well in advance, especially for weekends.

Signed from A361, turn right once in Knowstone
Nearest station: Tiverton Parkway

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