The Masons Arms

The low-roofed thatched inn on the Devon-Somerset border dates from the 13th century, though you might not guess it from the airy, many-windowed ambience of the dining room, with its pine floors, plain wood tables and ever-so-discreet beams. Don't forget to glance up at the engaging ceiling fresco. Mark Dodson brings his long experience at Michel Roux's Waterside Inn (see entry, Bray, Berkshire) to bear, but tempers it gently to the surroundings, and achieves a deeply appealing blend of modern British and French modes in the process. A meal might consist of scallops with pear and vanilla, a robust pairing of fillet of local beef with oxtail, served with parsnip purée in red wine jus, and then a regionally unimpeachable finale of apple and blackberry crumble tart with clotted cream ice cream.