Sun Inn

Kirkby Lonsdale is one of the ornaments of Cumbria, in a county scarcely lacking in aesthetic allure. Built of Lakeland stone and full of little passageways, it's also home to this congenial old inn, dating from the Stuart era. Overflowing with warmth and character (and home-made furniture) in the country-pub manner, it also boasts a commitment to sustainably-based local food. Start with a slab of ham hock terrine wrapped in air-dried ham, garnished with sticky apple, before moving on to roasted monkfish with chicory, mussels and squid in a buttery sauce, and concluding with dark chocolate fondant, served with rhubarb syllabub and poached rhubarb.