Theobalds Restaurant

An abundance of beams, standing timbers and half-height dividers are to be expected in a property dating from the 16th century, and the décor is quite in keeping, with ladder-back chairs at clothed tables, floral curtains at windows looking on to the street or a pretty patio garden, and a cottagey bar area with a huge inglenook. Tried and tested menu stalwarts run from twice-baked goats' cheese soufflé, or chicken liver parfait with quince jelly, to crème brûlée. The kitchen's imagination and masterly techniques are evident in well-balanced main courses of poached fillet of halibut with white port, tomato and tarragon sauce, and in accurately timed, pink and tender best end of lamb partnered by rosemary and Madeira jus. Alcohol is a favoured addition to a number of sauces, as in seasonal roast quail breast with Calvados jus and poached apples, and is used to good effect in puddings too: iced Grand Marnier parfait with chocolate sauce, for instance.