There's something magical about an island and Eriska, a 300-acre estate separated from the mainland by an iron bridge, is a place more than capable of ensuring equanimity in body and soul. The wild, natural landscape offers plenty of opportunities for exercise and contemplation, while a golf course is available for those in need of a little healthy competition. The house itself is a Victorian baronial mansion with more than a whiff of castle about it, delivering a top-drawer country-house experience in the form of luxurious bedrooms, a spa, and dining of the highest order. The restaurant is a series of spaces, elegantly proportioned and including a conservatory, with a décor which has a contemporary sheen whilst remaining true to the traditional feel of the building. Robert MacPherson has been at the stoves here for nigh on 25 years and his cooking is based on sound classical thinking without ever standing still, and wonderful Scottish produce is given pride of place. Roast Scottish young partridge, for example, with a fine parmesan, thyme and autumn chanterelle tart, is one way to start, preceding a superb piece of roast turbot with cabbage, deliciously plump Loch Linnhe langoustines, mustard cannelloni and vermouth sauce. To finish, griottine cherry tart is served with poached pear and cherry compôte. All the accompanying ancillary bits and pieces - amuse-bouche, breads, petits fours - are first rate, and the front-of-house team are especially worthy of praise.