Rocpool positively bristles with contemporary design flair. Glassed on two sides, it sits on a corner site on the west bank of the Ness, with floodlit views of the Castle after dark. As much as the location delights the eye, the lengthy menus of many-layered modern Scottish cooking will stimulate the imagination. A Thai red curry of mussels sounds straightforward enough, but there might also be seared pigeon breast dressed in sherry vinegar, pine nuts and sultanas, with Jerusalem artichoke and pancetta. Then it's on to crisp-fried sea bream with roasted peppers, spinach, basil and capers, or calves' liver Venetian style, with sweet onions, garlic and rosemary potatoes and artichokes. Desserts aim to please with the likes of pecan pie and maple syrup ice cream, or passionfruit Pavlova with thick cream.