Glenmoriston Town House Hotel,
20 Ness Walk,
INVERNESS,
IV2 4SF
Observant locals will have noticed that the Contrast used to be next door to the Glenmoriston Hotel, but was incorporated into it a couple of years ago. What hasn't changed is the relaxing location, a short walk from the city centre on a bank of the Ness. With an outdoor terrace offering stunning Highland views, it's a very welcoming ambience for some self-assured modern brasserie cooking. A meal might open with a quartet of evenly seared scallops, seasoned with cumin and confit lemon, and served with braised fennel. Local free-range pork belly comes in Thai guise, with a warm noodle salad, pickled cucumber and fried tiger prawns, and then there might be a trio of crème brûlée variations: au naturel, with Baileys, and subtly spiced with cardamom.