Orwells

The simple whitewashed exterior says village pub, but once inside, it is clear that Orwells is very much driven by a vibrantly creative kitchen. The operation divides its focus between a traditional-style pubby setting with low beams and bare tables, and a more swishly formal venue, known as The Room, where the tables come dressed in their best whites. Conscientious sourcing underpins the kitchen's efforts, with seasonally foraged ingredients adding interest to fine produce from local suppliers. The 'Pub' menu majors in dishes of the upmarket gastro-pub sort - perhaps local rabbit Scotch egg with rocket and fennel salad and gribiche sauce, then pan-seared sea trout teamed with crushed potatoes, samphire, sultana and spring onion verjus butter sauce, and fennel purée. Opt for The Room, and the creative juices really start to flow: duck is served three ways - Earl Grey-smoked, confit, and poached and pressed foie gras with celery jelly, tamarind and beetroot, followed by roast loin and braised shoulder of lamb served with sweetbreads, morel mushrooms, pesto, and chick pea beignets.