Beales Hotel

Natural Cedar wood and huge glass panels are brought together to create a striking and unusual building at this branch of the Beales Hotels group. If it has the look of a modernist art gallery that might be because it was largely rebuilt in 2004 and is home to a substantial collection of contemporary art from the nearby university of Hertfordshire. The Outsidein Restaurant fits the surroundings perfectly with its groovy Scandinavian-style minimalism involving panels of decorated glass, walls clad in pale wood, designer ceiling lights above the tables, psychedelic seats and darkwood tables. All in all it is quite a design statement, but the creative food holds its own thanks to the quality of the raw materials and the skilful treatment they receive. Dishes are not hamstrung by over-complication and stick to familiar combinations that work well, as in pan-fried scallops served with wilted spinach and chilled tomato consommé, followed by chargrilled cutlet and slow-cooked neck of spring lamb teamed with fondant potato, carrots, spinach and port jus.