Scott and Lisa Hessel's revamped 19th-century coaching inn has a pleasing contemporary finish and serves up smart, modish food. Back in 1990 Scott won the Roux Scholarship and his cooking shows a degree of refinement and a light touch. You can have a sandwich in the bar at lunchtime, or settle into a high-backed leather chair for the full works. Start, perhaps, with line-caught Cornish mackerel tempura with pickled cucumber dipping sauce, followed by roast loin of North Yorkshire suckling pig with a little pudding of wild boar, served with cabbage, creamed parsnips, baby onions and a cider jus. Sunday roasts are a hit, as are the cask ales on tap.