If you've read the book or seen one of the many TV adaptations it will come as no surprise that this modish brasserie is in an old Victorian schoolhouse. There similarities to the life of the 19th-century fictional schoolboy end, for this thoroughly modish place by the River Trent has bags of style and serves up rather refined brasserie food. The building has kept a flavour of its past, but given it a contemporary finish with fashionably muted tones on the walls, high-backed leather chairs and linen-clad tables. The menu is full of interesting ideas and the food looks good on the plate. A mini pigeon Wellington is an inventive first course, served with celeriac purée and baby leeks, or try the 'ploughman's', which is ham hock terrine with a cheddar emulsion, home-pickled onions, Scotch quail's egg and Tom Brown's salad cream. Local pork gets a workout among main courses (crispy belly, fillet and hotpot), and to finish, cappuccino crème brûlée comes with mini cinnamon doughnuts. The early bird menu is terrific value.