Gamba prides itself on a long-established reputation as the place to head for in Glasgow for all things fishy. The snug venue in the basement of a Georgian townhouse in the trendy West End goes for a clean-cut contemporary style involving terracotta floor tiles, pale wooden tables and plenty of piscine references in its fish-themed artwork - all very warm and simple, and nothing to distract from the business in hand. The kitchen draws on Mediterranean and Asian influences in an eclectic repertoire: starters can be as unadorned as half a dozen Donegal oysters, or as homely as smoked haddock fishcakes with thyme and lemon creamed leeks, but there might also be yellowfin tuna sashimi with wasabi, soy and pickled ginger. Oriental influences continue in a main course of sea bass with king prawns, ginger, spring onions and soy steamed in paper, while fillets of red mullet with chorizo peperonata call to those with a love of Mediterranean warmth.