6-8 Bystock Terrace, EXETER, EX4 4HY
There is much to enjoy at this restaurant in a townhouse hotel on a quiet, leafy square just a short stroll from the city centre. The pared-back monochrome decor - black leather high-backed chairs at linen-clad tables and snow-white walls - has a certain gloss thanks to contemporary chandeliers and Venetian masks on the walls-a nod, perhaps, to the Mediterranean warmth that informs the modern cooking on offer. Sound sourcing lends substance to the whole operation, backed by the kitchen brigade's thoughtful approach and sound technical ability to pull off ideas such as boudin of rabbit mousseline and poached garlic served with lightly-spiced pickled red cabbage and a port reduction. Local roots are celebrated via a herb-crusted rack of West Country lamb, partnered with a slow-braised lamb shank faggot with Lyonnaise potatoes and carrot purée, while creative desserts run to a tiramisù-inspired coffee and mascarpone mousse-filled chocolate macaroon served with miniature jellies and espresso syrup.
Tel: 01392 272709
Please quote 'The AA'.
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