36 on the Quay

'On the Quay' is right. The cream-painted building sits right across the road from the harbour front in the picturesque town of Emsworth. Within is a simple and compact bar area with bare wood floor, while the restaurant itself is done in marine blue, and offers bay-window views of the water. Service is very much hands-on, in a gently formal way that enhances the whole experience. Ramon Farthing aims high, producing dishes that are technically skilled, essentially French in their orientation, but embellished with many modern ideas. Complexity is all, but is brought off well, as in a starter that combines seared scallops with pea-shoots, apple crisps, a 'dust' of Serrano ham, passionfruit dressing and beetroot syrup, a courageous medley of sweet, salt and savoury flavours that shows great balance. New season's lamb noisettes are more traditionally accompanied by dauphinoise, roasted shallots and confit tomatoes, with strips of the liver and rosemary sauce. Desserts bring the curtain down with a flourish, perhaps in the form of chocolate-coated peanut parfait with mini-doughnuts of butterscotch and an incredibly intense espresso foam.

Please telephone for directions
Nearest station: Emsworth

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