The Anchor Inn

Back in 1650 when Ely was still a swampy island, the Anchor was built to put up workers engaged in hand-digging the New Bedford River to drain the malaria-ridden Fenlands. The ancient inn has been spared a boutique makeover as it already has more than its fair share of character - wonky tiled floors, dark oak-panelled walls, scrubbed pine tables and chairs, and roaring fires when winter is knocking at the door. You're in East Anglia, so the region's excellent ingredients are what turn up on the plate, brought together in intelligent, intuitive combinations with a clear eye to the sunnier climes of Europe. The menu sparkles with good ideas - Denham Estate wild boar ham could be wrapped in chicory and served with cider and apple jelly and blue cheese dressing, while mains might see rump of lamb partnered with parsnip pancake, poached rhubarb, curly kale and balsamic jus. Finish with green tea and orange cheesecake and chocolate-coated candied orange.