Why rhubarb? Back in 1746, erstwhile owner Sir Alexander Dick introduced the eponymous Asian vegetable to Scotland when it was an exotic rarity on the table. The same description might also be applied to the Prestonfield House Hotel, which is a blue-blooded 17th-century mansion kitted out in unapologetically theatrical and decadent style to create a romantic dining destination. In the ambience of a period film set, opulent shades of blood red and burgundy frame linen-clad tables lit seductively with tea lights - it all adds up to a serious wow factor, and the cooking does not sit in the shadow of the décor. You might start dinner with Isle of Mull crab, honey-roast ham ribs, toasted hazelnuts and mango salsa, and progress to chorizo-crumbed cod fillet with brandade, cauliflower purée and black olives. For pudding, stick with the theme and go for rhubarb crumble and custard with candied ginger ice cream.