Rhubarb at Prestonfield House

Amateur food historians might like to take note that this restaurant has more right than most to name itself after the eponymous Asian vegetable, since it was the former owner of Prestonfield, Sir Alexander Dick, who brought the exotic rarity to Scotland in 1746. The blue-blooded 17th-century mansion wears a rather different set of clothes these days: the designers have done their stuff, kitting out the old girl with a decadent, theatrical and rather glam boudoir look that delivers all the wow-factor you'd expect from Regency rooms done out with chandeliers and oil paintings set against darkly opulent shades of blood red and burgundy. The food is no wallflower either, thanks to a kitchen that makes its own luxurious contribution, blending old-school classicism with an eclectic contemporary spirit. Hand-dived scallops appear with a supporting cast of cauliflower purée, lovage, chorizo, apple and truffle dressing and confit lemon, all staged to make maximum visual impact. Next up, roast loin of Strathspey venison with black pudding crumble, red cabbage purée, and Arran mustard and potato mousse. An intricate dessert brings together top-notch chocolate flavoured with extra-virgin olive oil with financiers, coconut ice cream, and a sphere of Earl Grey tea-flavoured gel.