Restaurant Martin Wishart

During his 10 years in Leith, Martin Wishart has created a restaurant with a reputation that spreads far beyond the city limits, county boundaries, and the national border. There is now a cookery school bearing his name just five minutes from the restaurant, and a new outpost - Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond - has opened in Cameron House on Loch Lomond, in West Dunbartonshire (see entry). But fear not, Mr Wishart is not spreading himself too thinly. His flagship restaurant remains a bastion of elegant simplicity, where classical French traditions and a lightness of touch, plus exciting combinations and first-class Scottish produce, equals a stunning dining experience. The room is chic and elegant, based around natural tones of brown and cream, with stylish fixtures-and-fittings, contemporary artworks and well-spaced, well-dressed tables. The fixed-price menus (set-lunch, carte, tasting, plus a bespoke vegetarian version) are full of excitingly creative combinations and it is clear from the canapés (gougére and many others) and excellent bread that you are in safe hands. Langoustine ravioli with endive braised with orange and a langoustine and olive oil jus displays well-judged flavours, while main-course grilled lemon sole with sautéed veal kidneys is a delicate and highly successful partnership, with caramelised cauliflower, capers and endive. Assiette of rhubarb and yogurt, ginger beer sorbet and lemongrass sauce come together in a divine dessert. Service is suitably slick and avoids pomposity, and the sommelier is on hand to guide the way through the seriously impressive wine list.

Please telephone for directions/map on website
Nearest station: Waverley

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