The faithful of Derby no longer turn up at this converted Wesleyan chapel to witness fire and brimstone sermons from the pulpit, but to indulge in a bit of 21st-century R&R. The interior of this stylish town-centre restaurant and wine bar brims with character and atmosphere - sharp contemporary looks, including tables up on soaring split-level galleries, perched in pole position for people-watching above the flock down in the buzzy wine bar. The kitchen is creative without running riot, sticking mostly to tried-and-tested ideas in a modern British vein but never lacking invention either. A starter of seared Scottish scallops with chicken wing lollipop, sweetcorn purée, and truffle cream delivers clear flavours, followed by fillet of beef with wild mushroom ravioli, leeks roasted in thyme and garlic, and shallot and red wine jus.