The New Angel Restaurant & Rooms

Perched right on the harbour-front, with all but edible views across the Dart, the New Angel has long been a destination restaurant in the area - not least because its presiding genius, John Burton-Race, has had one of the more visible TV chef careers. It's very much a restaurant of two halves, the ground floor a merry bustle with kitchen open to view, upstairs a more sedate space, with a nice contrast between the smart table coverings and uncovered floor. Fish and seafood are sourced from boats that tie up a few feet away, and the cooking mostly has an uncomplicated feel, with dishes that are not overworked. Dressed crab is bound with red pepper and almonds and served in a lightly spiced crab nage, while main-course fish might be roasted brill with new potatoes and béarnaise. Meat-eaters are by no means neglected, and might be glad of South Devon beef rib with bordelaise beans in red wine (served for two). Desserts are no mere afterthought, as may be gleaned from the delectable warm pineapple tart, daringly glazed in white chocolate, with a vibrant coconut sorbet.

Town centre, on water's edge
Nearest station: Totnes

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