The New Angel Restaurant & Rooms

Refurbished and revitalised once again, the new New Angel is still in the capable hands of John Burton Race. The TV work goes on, but Mr Burton Race has found the time to inject further impetus into this elegant waterfront restaurant. The half-timbered Tudor building, with its large windows overlooking the busy river Dart estuary, is painted a sophisticated dark grey and the new interior is refined without being overbearing. Tables are now clothed in white linen and smartly set. The ground-floor dining room with its open-plan kitchen buzzes with life, while the upstairs cocktail lounge is intended to be the more mellow space. The food is a little more straightforward in presentation, local produce gets star billing and the flavours hit the mark. Fricassée of snails, tender and delicious, cooked in red wine fill a puff pastry tartlet with the addition of an onion cream in an impressive starter, while main-course braised pig's trotter, foie gras, potato purée and fine beans further confirms the French sensibilities of the chef. Chocolate fondant with pistachio ice cream is a divine dessert, and service throughout is on the ball.

Town centre, on water's edge
Nearest station: Totnes

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