The Dart Marina Hotel is a place with a good deal of contemporary swagger. There's a spa if the view over the water is not relaxing enough, copious bedrooms done out with more than a touch of contemporary style, and a bistro - Wildfire Bistro & Bar - which has a terrace where outside fires are lit when the air gets a little chilly. So far, so cool. And then there's the River Restaurant, where some seriously good modern British food is served in a room of understated refinement with full-length windows and smartly laid tables dressed with fresh flowers. There's an evident commitment to local produce and plenty of interesting ideas on the menu. Start with all the comfort of mushroom risotto with parmesan and truffle oil, or dip into the more adventurous options like hand-picked crab ravioli with leek salad and crab foam, or Bigbury Bay oysters with spinach and a tarragon glaze. For main course, there might be a venison plate (roasted loin, pudding and hand-chopped burger) or fillet of whiting with bok choy and curried mussel velouté.