The Methuen Arms

At the head of Corsham's High Street, not far from Bath, The Methuen Arms is a porticoed Georgian house acquired, and skilfully refurbished, by the Still family in 2010. The beams and exposed stone walls have been left undisturbed, to create an agreeable rustic ambience, enhanced by bare floorboards and log fires, and there are proper cask ales on pump. The dining arm of the operation is intended to be its 'beating heart,' say the Stills, with an undertaking that foams and swipes are out, in favour of carefully prepared, high-quality local produce, honestly presented. That might translate into a tightly wrapped chunky terrine of chicken and leek in Parma ham with hazelnut dressing, followed by slow-roasted Wiltshire Horn lamb, accompanied by creamy potato and celeriac dauphinoise, puréed parsnip, curly kale and a rich, thick jus. Side-dishes include fine honey- and sage-roasted baby carrots. With absolutely trad rhubarb trifle to finish, the cooking offers a world of simple, effective satisfaction.