The New Inn at Coln

In an unmolested village not far from Cirencester, the New Inn is a creeper-covered beauty, a Victorian country hostelry in the style of somewhere much older. The flagged floors, inglenooks and beams are enhanced by a rich shade of plum in the décor, and tables in the restaurant are laid up with proper linen and good glasses. An ambitious intelligence distinguishes the menu, which may feature a starter pairing of smoked duck breast with a tian of confit duck, accompanied by celeriac remoulade and dressed with port and juniper syrup. A robust approach to fish cookery sees fried salmon accompanied by a sauce of chorizo and garlic, or there could be roast pheasant with pancetta and chestnut jus. Strawberry delice on a ginger-nut biscuit base with apricot glaze and mint sorbet is an appealingly summery way to finish. The local cheeses are well worth a look too.