Hallidays

Hallidays, a thatched cottage in a quiet village, is a small restaurant divided in two by a tiny bar. It's a comfortable place, with beams in the low ceiling, upholstered chairs, and flowers on clothed tables. Chef Andy Stephenson is a busy man, curing, smoking, baking, foraging, and is evangelical about sourcing the freshest local produce. His short, uncomplicated menus showcase the results of his labours with starters of nettle soup with a crab fritter, a plate of charcuterie with pickles, or gravad lax with a potato pancake and beetroot relish, and puddings of rum and raisin ice cream with warm chocolate tart. In between might come accurately timed roast skate wing from the wood-fired oven (a favourite cooking medium) with capers, parsley and lemon, griddled loin of hare with a cottage pie of the shoulder and port and juniper sauce, or tender griddled pork cutlet plainly served with apple sauce and rosemary jus.