Miskin Manor Country Hotel

Miskin Manor's history extends back to the 12th century. Of course, it now has a full complement of modern spa facilities, and despite its proximity to the M4, 22 acres of grounds with fabulously colourful gardens create a tranquil buffer from the modern world. The romantic Meisgyn restaurant has a suitably Gothic feel with its curvy wrought iron seats, oak panelling and swagged-back gauzy curtains, but the kitchen is up to speed with modern trends. Heritage dishes are given the modern British treatment, starting, perhaps with butter-roasted pigeon with warm ham hock, poached rhubarb and rhubarb foam, and game jus. Local meats are served in modish formats, say rack and shoulder of lamb, with rosemary mash, red wine garlic purée, mint essence and port jus, while fish could arrive as monkfish with 24-hour-roasted cherry tomatoes, sweet potato purée, monkfish cheeks and basil foam. Novel touches at dessert stage might include fizzy rhubarb jelly with a mini rhubarb crème brûlée, and soured vanilla bean ice cream.