Look for the cream frontage and green door of this converted Victorian house. Inside feels comfortingly domestic, the kind of place where the close-packed tables only add to the appeal, and a range of wines are displayed on a dresser for your perusal. The modern menu keeps things sensibly simple for the likes of fried red mullet with toasted nut risotto and rocket pesto to start. After a sorbet, you might follow on with roast venison loin with celeriac and nutmeg mash, sauced daringly with chocolate and vanilla, or blackened cod in vermouth and chive cream. Go Italian at dessert stage with lemon and pine nut polenta cake, served with mascarpone.