Roman Camp Country House Hotel

So named, at the outbreak of the Second World War, for its proximity to one of the Romans' more northerly encampments, the hotel has been lavishly appointed. The interiors, indeed, are a sight for sore eyes, with their positively rococo colour schemes, fabrics and tapestries. The expansive, elliptical dining room is softly candlelit, the tables decorated with ornamental flower features that nearly reach the low ceiling. The strongly Francophile cooking revolves around thrilling combinations, with prime seasonal Scottish produce underpinning it. Curry-dusted scallops are a well-judged opener, served with puréed celeriac and raw apple, and then comes an intermediate soup course, perhaps white bean infused with Périgord black truffle. Roe deer is a majestic main course, the loin wrapped in pancetta, sweetly set off with honey-roasted parsnips, puréed beetroot and a 'cigarette' of dates. Only an overwhelming coffee foam upsets the balance of the dish. An ingenious dessert is the dark chocolate délice, which oozes forth pistachio cream, fondant-fashion, and comes with nicely contrasting mascarpone ice cream. With breads, canapés and extras all up to the mark, this is without doubt a destination restaurant.

N on A84 through Callander, Main St turn left at East End into drive
Nearest station: Stirling

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