Drive down the private road which leads to Roman Camp (so called because of the nearby Roman earthworks) and it's hard to believe you're just a few hundred yards from Callander's main high street. Set in the Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park in the former estate of the Earl of Moray, this 17th-century hotel is an ideal base for exploring Scotland's major cities. It's also a peaceful and opulent place to get away from it all. From low ceilings and large open fires in the three public rooms to the two formal dining rooms, where oak-panelling sets off multi-textured fabrics and ornate plasterwork, this place exudes luxury. Tables are crisply laid and served by polite and informative staff. Great Scottish ingredients are skillfully cooked by a chef who clearly knows how to put flavours together and is not afraid to simplify dishes where necessary. Examples of the classical French cooking with modern Scottish twists included mi-cuit salmon with celeriac remoulade and beetoot jelly - every component executed with aplomb. A main course of breast of Goosnargh duckling with foie gras and confit leg spring roll and sesame dressing is top-notch stuff, while a wonderful passionfruit tart with coconut sorbet and pistachio oil rounds things off nicely. A considered global wine list caters for all pockets with some special bottles at the top end.