When King Charles II returned from exile across the water, he holed up for a while here in his favourite hunting lodge, a graceful red-brick house in the heart of the New Forest. Nowadays, His Majesty's hideaway is a stylish country hotel with its own equestrian centre, croquet lawn and spa, and a romantic high-ceilinged restaurant replete with oak panelling and the royal coat of arms above the fireplace. Large windows open up lovely views across a paddock where ponies roam, as a backdrop to modern British cooking that plays to the gallery with an unfussy repertoire. To start, there might be open ravioli of local pig's cheek, braised clams and wilted spinach, followed by pan-fried sea bass with crab risotto and shellfish butter sauce. For dessert, perhaps coffee crème brûlée with white chocolate mousse.