The Felin Fach Griffin

Set just off the main road in a tiny Brecon village, here is a rural pub that takes a serious approach to fine dining and quality drinking. Bare wood tables, whitewashed walls and a slate floor preserve the rustic feel, but the place becomes softly candlelit in the evenings, and the service is warm and welcoming too. An organically certified kitchen garden helps keep Simon Potter supplied with raw materials and inspiration, and principal ingredients are also of a high order. A chunky chowder of smoked haddock, sweetcorn and pancetta is a fortifying starter, and might be followed by crisp-skinned Cornish hake with crushed new potatoes in a shellfish broth, or Welsh cob chicken with roasted carrots and grain mustard jus. Lemon parfait scattered with toasted pine nuts and raspberries is a light, summery way to conclude. Allow plenty of time to choose from the thoroughly commendable wine list.