The Devonshire Arms

With stunning views of Wharfedale in the Yorkshire Dales, the Devonshire Arms hotel, owned by the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire no less, dates back to the 17th century when it was built as a coaching inn. A host of sympathetic extensions and restorations later and it's now a classic and luxurious country house with impressive spa facilities, elegantly furnished bedrooms - some with four-posters and fine antiques - all set within the Duke's 30,000 acre Bolton Abbey Estate. The sitting rooms feature squishy sofas and roaring log fires and are delightfully cosy places to sip aperitifs and nibble on canapés. The Burlington Restaurant is suitably elegantly done out with pale walls adorned by classic architectural drawings and soft, intimate lighting, with designer silverware, fine crystal and stylish white china ensuring no stone is unturned. There's the Devonshire Brasserie in situ as well, if you're in the mood for more straightforward food in snazzy surroundings. But it's the fine dining Burlington that really shows what the kitchen is made of. Under head chef Stephen Smith, technically dazzling cooking makes the very best of first-rate seasonal ingredients, many from the hotel's grounds. A beautifully presented foie gras starter, for example, is an intricate dish including amongst its treasures a foie gras ballotine and Goosnargh duck 'textures' (cured and smoked breast, parfait, gesier and rillette) pointed up by a cherry gel and served with perfect brioche. A stunning piece of halibut turns up in a main course with cauliflower, brown shrimps, caper butter, pickled grapes and sorrel in another well-judged, technically impressive dish. And to finish, an ambitious apple dessert - caramelised apple pie mousse, apple sorbet, blackberry jelly and crisp filo - shows fine balance of flavours and textures. Do, though, save a little room to dip into the separate menu of petits fours, including a saffron jelly and After Eight macaroon. Cellar master Nigel Fairclough is on hand to advise on the stunning wine list which just oozes quality and features some of the best vintages to be found in the country.