Malmaison Bar & Brasserie

Part of the buzzy Mailbox area, The Malmaison occupies what was once a Royal Mail sorting office. It's a smart and stylish hotel, with the first-floor brasserie done out in darkwood and deep leather-look banquettes, with pictures of the city's canals of yore. The cooking style is as contemporary as the surroundings, and the kitchen knows how to handle top-quality produce, with suppliers given due credit. Grilled sardines with crisp Serrano ham and smoked beurre noisette are among the bright ideas, followed perhaps by chicken fried in buttermilk served with sweetcorn pudding and sauce romesco, or a more straightforward salad of smoked haddock with warm Jersey Royals. Among puddings may be apple and almond tart with salted caramel ice cream.