The Strathearn

The main dining room of the Gleneagles golf resort (assuming we overlook Andrew Fairlie's contribution for the moment - see separate entry) is situated in what was the ballroom, in the days when people expected to be able to swing a leg as much as a five-iron. Under a grandly moulded ceiling, and with gathered drapes and formal table settings establishing the tone, the style of cooking is at once sufficiently old-school that carving and flambé trolleys can patrol the dining room as though Edward VII were still on the throne, and yet possessed of enough acuity to keep many of the dishes firmly in the modern mainstream. So mains might offer a monkfish version of osso buco, with pancetta, foie gras and paprika, or Highland venison with sweet potato gratin and wild mushroom ragoût. Fresh shellfish starters are the way to go, and dessert might be a baked Alaska made with roast banana and served with butterscotch sauce.