Brudenell Hotel

Sitting in the light-flooded contemporary restaurant of this handsome Edwardian beachfront hotel, it feels as if the sea is just a pebble's skim away. The Bru, to give the split-level restaurant its proper title, goes for a jaunty New England beachcomber-chic look with lattice-backed blond wood chairs and bare tables, painted shutters and cheery pastel shades. Whatever the weather, huge picture windows frame sea views, and for fine days, tables on the terrace are the way to go. The kitchen steers a modern European course without veering into uncharted territory; as much as possible is sourced locally and treated without undue fuss, as in a starter of local smoked eel with scrambled duck egg and chargrilled bread. Mains look to the land and sea for roast saddle of venison with a home-made faggot, poached pear, buttered greens and croquettes, and monkfish fillet with roasted girolles and caper risotto, roast chicken tips and jus.