Maryculter House Hotel

The early 13th-century house was once a stronghold of the Knights Templar, as is witnessed by the carved coats-of-arms that crop up here and there in the stonework. Its restaurant, the Priory, looks out on the River Dee, and is the stage for some lively contemporary cooking that aims for a playful note, as though in contrast to the stately austerity of the surroundings. That translates as medallions of monkfish on a moist sorrel risotto with air-dried pancetta and mint oil, followed perhaps by tapenade-topped lamb chump with ratatouille in tomato and oregano jus. The suitably grand dessert might be rhubarb soufflé, served with a smooth ice cream flavoured with Glenlivet single malt.