High Street, MADINGLEY, CB23 8AB
Chimneys of mellow brick pierce the thick thatch of this cute village inn outside Cambridge. Between the reed-roofed main building and the extensive beer garden, a substantial conservatory restaurant bathes in dappled light cast by the mature trees that edge this plot in one of the county's most charming villages. With tasty beers from the likes of City of Cambridge brewery and 22 wines by the glass, the wet side of the business attracts a good following. The meals emerging from the kitchen overseen by chef-patron Richard Stokes take the treat to another level again. A meal could start with Portland crab, peas, grilled corn, pickled samphire and chilli crab aïoli; then mains might offer roast Suffolk cannon and breast of lamb, sweetbread, kidney and wild mushroom ragout, pecorino, peas and pea shoots; or slow-cooked pig cheeks with star anise ginger, chilli, burnt aubergine purée, local bok choy, fried wild rice and pickled namenko and enoki mushrooms. Still room, perhaps, for compressed plums, shortbread crumble, almond cake and cream? Menus change weekly and seasonally; children's portions are available.
Tel: 01954 210221
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Adnams Southwold Bitter, Hook Norton Old Hooky, Smiles Best Bitter, City of Cambridge Hobson's Choice, guest ales
11.30-3 6-11 (Sun 11.30-3 6-9.30)
Coach parties catered.