The Fox and Hounds

Owned and run by chef James Rix, this renowned gastro-pub may be set in a sleepy Hertfordshire village, but it attracts food lovers from afar. There's an easy-going atmosphere thanks to a cosy winter fire warming the old bar, liberally supplied with Victorian-style furnishings. There is no pressure to do anything other than enjoy a glass of Adnams brewery beer, as the local drinkers do, but resistance is futile when you see the menu. There's no doubting that the food side of the pub is the main draw here, and lunch and dinner can be taken in the bar or elegant, chandeliered dining room. Kick off with spaghetti, clams, chilli, garlic and parsley before progressing to whole roast squab pigeon, potato gnocchi, pumpkin and leeks, or seared scallops, spinach and harissa butter. Finish with a calorific pudding such as hot chocolate fondant with espresso ice cream, accompanied by an impressive wine list. The tree-shaded garden, together with the heated, covered terrace is popular with both drinkers and alfresco diners.