The Fox and Hounds

Owned and run by chef James Rix and wife Bianca, this renowned gastro-pub may be set in a sleepy Hertfordshire village, but it attracts food lovers from afar. There's an easy-going atmosphere thanks to a cosy winter fire warming the old bar, liberally supplied with Victorian-style furnishings. There is no pressure to do anything other than enjoy a glass of Adnams beer as the local drinkers do, but resistance is futile when you see James's imaginative, Mediterranean-inspired menu, which changes daily and evolves with the seasons. There's no doubting that the food side of the pub is the main draw here, and lunch and dinner can be taken in the bar or elegant, chandeliered dining room. James successfully combines traditional pub favourites (with a twist) with French and rustic Italian influences, and his simply described dishes champion local produce. Expect interesting combinations of ingredients, bold flavours and difficulty in choosing what to eat. Kick off with Normandy black pudding, chestnuts and fried duck egg; pigeon breast with sautéed wild mushrooms, pancetta and baby onions; or fish soup with rouille and croutons; then savour roast cod with olive oil mash and cod, mussel and prawn sauce; or whole roast partridge with roast potatoes and braised Savoy cabbage; or splash out on a 30-day aged belted Galloway Chateaubriand for two, served with fat chips and béarnaise. Finish with a calorific dessert such as hot chocolate pudding with espresso ice cream, or poached pear and almond tart with crème fraîche, accompanied by a delicious 2007 Montbazillac dessert wine. Be sure to book for the excellent set Sunday lunches, the highlight being the roast rib of beef with all the trimmings. The tree-shaded garden, together with the heated, covered terrace is popular with both drinkers and alfresco diners. Booking for meals may be required.