Remenham Lane, HENLEY-ON-THAMES, RG9 2LS
This large whitewashed pub, just over the famous bridge from the town, gets pretty packed, especially at weekends. The chic interior features wooden floorboards, duck-egg blue tones with warming accents, an open fire, and spacious bar and dining areas. Other attractions are the well-compiled wine list, the Brakspear ales, and the exceptional modern menu, which is changed quarterly. Try game terrine with celeriac remoulade and toasted Lawler's bread; pan-fried black bream fillet with braised fennel, samphire and sauce vierge; and poached pear in mulled red wine, with fig and sherry frozen yoghurt. Sundays are 'unbelievably busy' so booking is essential, but don't worry, lunch is served all day.