The Cock Pub and Restaurant

Weary, hungry and stuck in traffic on the A14 near Huntingdon, then shun the services and follow signs for Hemingford Grey to find The Cock, a pretty 17th-century pub dozing on the main street in this idyllic village of thatched, timbered and brick cottages. It's a world away from the A14 throng, although just a mile away, and you can relax with peaceful views across the willow-bordered Great Ouse river. Other than the peaceful location, the detour is well worth taking as the food on offer is excellent - the set lunch menu is a steal. The stylishly revamped interior comprises a contemporary bar for drinks only, and a restaurant with bare boards, dark or white-painted beams, wood-burning stoves, and church candles on an eclectic mix of old dining tables. Cooking is modern British, with the occasional foray further afield, and fresh local produce is used in preparing the short, imaginative carte, while daily deliveries of fresh fish dictate the chalkboard menu choice, perhaps seared scallops with celeriac purée and chorizo; and grey mullet with braised Puy lentils, Savoy cabbage and salsa verde. A typical meal might kick off with coarse pork and herb terrine with honeyed figs and pork crackling. Follow with steamed game suet pudding with bacon and gravy; beef Wellington with dauphinoise roasted root vegetables and port sauce; or sausages (made by the owner) and mash; then round off with chocolate and orange mousse with pistachio biscuit, or a plate of unusual cheeses. The wine list specialises in the Languedoc and the choice of real ales favours local micro-breweries, perhaps Great Oakley Wagtail, Oldershaw Best Bitter and Brewster's Hophead. There is a beer festival every August Bank Holiday weekend.