Alford Arms

With historic Ashridge Park on the doorstep and surrounded by National Trust woodland, this pretty Victorian pub is almost all there is in the untouched hamlet of Frithsden. It's one of five in the well-regarded Salisbury Pubs mini-empire in and around the Chilterns, all of which have entries in this guide. Cross the threshold and you'll immediately pick up on the warm and lively atmosphere, derived from the buzz of conversation, some soft jazz in the background, and from the rich colours and eclectic mix of old furniture and antique pictures in the dining room and bar from Tring's well-known salerooms. Also from Tring is real ale called Side Pocket, which shares bar space with Marlow Rebellion IPA and Sharp's Doom Bar. The seasonal menus and daily specials are a balance of modern British with more traditional dishes, all prepared from fresh local produce whenever possible. There's a great choice of light dishes or 'small plates', from the pan-roasted Halsey Estate pigeon breast with cauliflower rösti and beetroot and juniper purée, to Cornish crab croquettes with chorizo cream. Equally imaginative main meals include roast hake fillet with clam, mussel and ham hock chowder, and smoked chilli onion rings; chargrilled 21-day-aged British rib-eye steak with fat chips, watercress and harissa butter; and creamy leeks, wild mushrooms, gruyère scone, parsnip purée and curly kale. Seville orange curd and jelly trifle with pecan biscuit is one way to finish, or there's also the plate of British cheeses. Like all pubs in the Salisbury group, they do great Sunday roasts. Booking for meals may be required.