If A A Milne could populate Ashdown Forest with a bear called Winnie the Pooh, a tiger called Tigger and a kangaroo called Kanga, why shouldn't llamas and reindeer live here? Well, they do, on a farm in nearby Wych Cross, not far from this eye-catching old inn at the site of one of the medieval gates into what was then dense woodland with valuable iron and timber reserves. Built around 1430, the part-weatherboarded building may have been cottages for iron workers, although as a pub for nearly 300 years, it was no doubt much appreciated by the dry-throated charcoal burners who used to work in these parts, and even passing smugglers. Classic beams and open fires draw an appreciative crowd to sample beers from Fuller's, Larkins and Harveys, and the food, a fusion of classic and modern, for which during the past 16 years proprietor Nicholas Drillsma and partner Sandy Barton have built an enviable reputation. Their daily-changing menus are complemented by an extensive wine list, including ten by the glass. With plenty of local suppliers to draw on, fresh seasonal produce features in just about everything, with starters of homemade carrot and coriander soup; and potato gnocchi in creamy stilton and spring onion sauce. Lunchtime mains include tagine of lamb with coriander and jasmine rice; and deep-fried Whitby Bay scampi tails with fries. A reservation is needed for evening dining, when choices include slow-braised belly of pork, purple sprouting broccoli and apple jus; breast of chicken, chorizo and wild mushroom risotto; and goat's cheese, artichoke heart and sun-blushed tomato tarte Tatin. Finish with homemade marshmallow, chocolate fondue and fruits, or orange upside-down sponge and custard. The Ashdown Forest beer festival is held here in June, when the views across the Forest from the two large gardens are especially fine.