The Pheasant Inn

Byroads thread this particularly pretty part of the Northumberland National Park, meandering between verdant valleys, high moors and tranquil woodlands at the edge of the Cheviot Hills. Here too are England's largest man-made forest and biggest reservoir, Kielder Water. Ideally sited to take full advantage is the ivy-clad Pheasant Inn, secluded at the forest's edge beside a lane heading towards the cycle tracks, sculpture trail, observatory, endless walks and superb wildlife watching (lots of red squirrels here) that set Kielder apart. Long before forest or lake existed, farmers visited a beer house at Stannersburn; from such beginnings as long ago as 1624 has developed today's archetypical old country inn; effortlessly welcoming, endlessly satisfying and with eight individually styled bedrooms to tempt travellers to tarry-a-while. Photos of yesteryear's locals and trades festoon the exposed stone walls that support blackened beams; light from winter log fires flickers across antique artefacts and furniture whilst summer guests use a stream-side garden of utter tranquillity. There's also a tasteful, terracotta-hued dining room where the daily-changing menu makes the most of Northumberland's generous larder, creatively cooked by Irene and Robin Kershaw. Caramelised red onion and goat's cheese tartlet, or farmhouse pâté with toast starters set the scene for confit of duck breast with a port and raspberry glaze, or roast sirloin of beef with Yorkshire pudding. A good range of fish fresh from North Shields fish quay add to the choice, including perhaps fresh dressed crab with new potatoes and salad. Excellent beers from Wylam Brewery satisfy guests eager to get their fill of Northumberland's bounty. Booking for meals may be required.