Once frequented by smugglers, this 300-year-old pub will be familiar to anyone who watched the BBC TV series The Fisherman's Apprentice. It sits in an unspoilt fishing hamlet of thatched cottages on the rugged Lizard coastline. In summer, ramblers mingle with tourists and locals on the sunny front patio, which affords views across the old pilchard cellar to the peaceful cove. The atmospheric, simply furnished bars are adorned with relics that record a rich seafaring history, and it's easy to imagine that the ghosts of smugglers still gather within these cosy walls. As we went to press we learnt the pub had changed hands.