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AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

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Cutting-edge experimental food in a monochrome basement

AA Inspector

At a glance

Vegetarian menu
Tasting menu
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access
Service charge
Credit cards accepted

The determinedly monochrome basement room of Michael O'Hare's contemporary restaurant is in stark contrast to the culinary approach. While black marble tables and floor tiles offset the grey-veined walls, which are lightened with vertical displays of skateboards, marble surfboards and scrawls of incoherent graffiti, the black-shaded lamps illuminate plates – and many another receptacle – of cutting-edge experimental food that manages to avoid a lot of what have become the modern clichés. The standard offering is a taster of 10 to 14 'sequences', with a digested version at lunchtime, built around a repertoire of dazzlingly imaginative dishes. A single octopus tentacle in butter emulsion has a strong hit of paprika, while a pâté of perfect crab is balanced on a crisp cracker and topped with a quail egg. Coarsely sliced, eloquently fatted Wagyu beef in olive juice with a sheet of potato paper is extraordinary in its impact, and the delicacy of judgment extends to a hake dumpling covered in hair-fine filaments of chilli for discreet heat. A dish that proved controversial on the BBC Great British Menu, O'Hare's fish and chips, is a model of concentrated refinement, expressively flavoured cod in miso broth with salt-and-vinegar straw potatoes, while a new spin on Rossini made with ox cheek is full of savoury, sticky richness. Creativity is unflagging to the end, which might feature milk chocolate mousse with honey and violet ice cream, cardamom and lemongrass soup with chilli sorbet, or potato puffs sprinkled with beetroot powder. It's all served forth to a soundtrack of throbbing rock.

Opening hours

  • Closed: 21 December to 13 January
  • Days closed: Sunday to Monday
  • Closed for lunch: Tuesday to Wednesday
  • Lunch served from: 12.30
  • Lunch served until: 2
  • Dinner served from: 6.30
  • Dinner served until: 8.30

Chef

  • Chef(s): Michael O'Hare

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern European
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines over £30: 18
  • Wines by the glass: 18

Price guide

  • Tasting menu from: £60.90
  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Steps for wheelchair: 9
  • Accessible toilets

Additional information

  • Seats: 42
  • Off-site parking available: Victoria Gate

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Nearest train station

Leeds
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