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AA Notable Wine List 2018-19
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

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Prime modern British cooking right beside the Tyne Bridge

AA Inspector

At a glance

Vegetarian menu
Private dining
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access
Service charge
Credit cards accepted

A four-storey brick townhouse built for a well-to-do merchant in the 16th century, lurking just next to one of the towering arches of the Tyne Bridge, the House of Tides is pretty much peak Newcastle. It wasn't that long ago that it was sadly derelict, but since the beginning of 2014, it has been the latest centre of operations of local man Kenny Atkinson, one of Britain's foremost exponents of imaginative contemporary food. It's worth taking your time to move through the spaces here, from a drink in the stone-flagged ground-floor bar before heading upstairs to the dining room, which extends along the full breadth of the building. The gnarled wooden columns and fireplace speak eloquently of the venerability of the place, but the pale yellow banquettes, white walls and gentle landscape pictures keeps things feeling light and easy on the eye. Probably the most exciting aspect of Atkinson's cooking is that it is very much still developing, taking on new challenges, exploring new ideas, and yet maintaining the firm commitments to depth of flavour and overall culinary balance. Tasting menus are the standard offering, and it's as well to allow virtually as much time at lunch as you would in the evening, as there is only one course fewer during the day. Appetisers give the earliest notice of the quality to come: airily light gougères, a carrot meringue with fennel, smoked cod's roe on a squid ink cracker with lemon. The first course may be a Lindisfarne oyster adorned with caviar, cucumber and ginger, before the bread arrives, a fermented rye dough with cultured butter to spread on it. Then come a succession of novel and surprising dishes, often mobilising quite straightforward combinations – sea bass with a chicken wing and white asparagus, veal sweetbreads in beef fat crumbs with onion, Cumbrian lamb with hen of the woods and hazelnuts – but achieving unearthly resonance on the palate from first-rate materials and pin-sharp attention to detail of each nuance of seasoning. At dessert, rhubarb finds a new best friend in dulce de leche with brown butter and rosewater to lubricate it, while the pastry offering combines perfect puff with Bramleys, raisins and cinnamon. Needless to say, the wine pairing is well worth the extra for rounding out the whole experience, but if you're determined to light out on your own, wines by the glass are particularly well-chosen, and there are some great cocktails to open the bidding.

Opening hours

  • Closed: 2019: 1–8 January, 15–21 April, 26–31 August, 23-31 December
  • Days closed: Sunday to Monday and Tuesday lunch
  • Closed for lunch: Sunday to Tuesday
  • Closed for dinner: Sunday to Monday
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 1.30
  • Dinner served from: 6
  • Dinner served until: 9

Chef

  • Chef(s): Kenny Atkinson

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern British
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines under £30: 12
  • Wines over £30: 140
  • Wines by the glass: 42

Price guide

  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Accessible toilets
  • Assist dogs welcome

Additional information

  • Seats: 60
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 12
  • On-site parking available
  • Off-site parking available: £1.20 per hour (free after 6pm)

Getting here

Please phone for directions.

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Nearest train station

Newcastle Central
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