The Rosette award for this establishment has been suspended due to a change of chef and reassessment will take place in due course. Restaurants where the gardener gets equal billing with the chef are rare beasts indeed, but that’s the case here at Horto, set in the 300 acres of landscaped gardens and woodland of Rudding Park, a classy spa and golfing hotel. The steward of the productive kitchen garden, Adrian Reeve, works in perfect synergy with the team to create dishes built on unimpeachable seasonal freshness. Choose between the concise carte or seven-course taster for food that brings together this peerless produce in exciting and adventurous ways. The menu restricts descriptions to three-word listings, thus scallop might be paired with potato and caviar, or superb Cornish turbot with mussel and parsnip. The umami notes of wakame seaweed and parmesan typically add depth to a principal dish of pork tortellini, while Nidderdale mallard is supported, perhaps, by beetroot and pear. The off-the-wall creativity continues into desserts such as treacle tart weaponised with birch syrup and brown butter.