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AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

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Concentrated creativity amid Edwardian municipal splendour

AA Inspector

At a glance

Vegetarian menu
Tasting menu
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access
Service charge
Credit cards accepted

The old Bethnal Green town hall was built at the end of the Edwardian era, and is uniquely suited to have become a 21st-century hotel. The space where council memos were once hammered out on manual typewriters is now an independent dining room, designed along impeccable modern lines, including an open-to-view theatre kitchen with five evening shows a week and four lunch matinées. Time spent at international reference eateries Noma and Per Se, and productive periods under London maestros Tom Aikens and Jason Atherton, have refined Lee Westcott's output to a rare pitch of concentrated creativity, and even where dishes look perfectly straightforward, they reveal unexpected depths of intensity from one mouthful to the next. That's certainly the case with an opening salad of Isle of Wight tomatoes, cobnuts and ricotta in chamomile oil and basil, the inspired element being a clutch of raspberries that enhance the tomatoes no end. At main, richly satisfying smoked eel is contrasted with chicken wings and radish in a golden onion consommé, while the game season brings on partridge served with a little sausage of its offals, offset with red cabbage, blackberry relish and sweet cipollini onions in a sturdy game reduction. To finish, there are fragrant desserts such as satin-smooth sheep's yogurt ice cream with apple and dill granita, or cleanly refreshing lemon sorbet with almond cream and salt caramel praline. Canapés are a parade of inventive delights, and bread service is as ingenious as the rest, when a sourdough loaf made with IPA bitter comes with Marmite butter and crunchy barley seeds.

Opening hours

  • Closed: 24 December to 2 January
  • Days closed: Sunday to Monday
  • Closed for lunch: Tuesday to Wednesday
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 2.15
  • Dinner served from: 6
  • Dinner served until: 10

Chef

  • Chef(s): Lee Westcott

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: British, Modern European
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines over £30: 350
  • Wines by the glass: 24

Price guide

  • 2-course lunch from: £27
  • 3-course lunch from: £32
  • Tasting menu from: £65
  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Accessible toilets
  • Assist dogs welcome

Facilities

  • Seats: 38
  • Off-site parking available: Opposite (meter)

Additional information

  • Seats: 38

Getting here

Nearest train station

Bethnal Green
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Three-course lunch from£32**Based on the minimum price for a 3-course lunch *Based on the minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Based on the minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Based on the minimum price for a 3-course lunch
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